Packaged fresh cheeses

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Wrapped feta

Feta or Feta (in modern Greek: φέτα) refers to a cheese curd in brine originating in Greece. The name of this cheese is borrowed from Italian fetta ("slice") which dates back to the 17th century. The name feta associated with cheese is attested in the 19th century. It characterizes a cheese produced according to precise techniques. This type of cheese is traditionally made from goat or sheep milk.

During the 20th century, a production of similar cheeses developed elsewhere in Europe, then in the world. In the European Union, the name "feta" has been a protected designation of origin (PDO) and a protected geographical indication (PGI) since October 14, 2002.

Feta is, along with tomato, cucumber, onions and olive oil, one of the ingredients in Greek salad (Horiatiki). It is also found in many other traditional Greek dishes.

History

White cheeses in brine, of which feta is one of the varieties, have probably been around for millennia. They are traditionally produced from the Balkans to the borders of present-day Turkey. Some people locate the origin of this cheese in the territory of present-day Bulgaria or in Macedonia, but it seems impossible to say concretely.

There are many references to cheese in works from ancient Greece, such as in song IX of the Odyssey. Cyclops Polyphemus is even said to be one of the first producers of cheese. After milking his sheep, he put the milk in an animal skin bottle and realized a few days later that the milk had become a solid, tasty and preservable mass. However, it is impossible to know exactly what type of production is referred to here.

Curdled cheese in brine is only really attested in Byzantine times, under the term "prosphatos" (πρόσφατος), and is then mainly associated with Crete. An Italian visitor to Candia in 1494 very clearly describes its storage in brine.

The word "feta" is borrowed from the Italian fetta ("slice") which dates from the 17th century, and is probably due to the way cheese is cut into slices. The first known written mention of the word feta dates from the 19th century, in the store of the Greek usurer, Stefanos D. Rigas, from the island of Syros.

From the 1930s, a production of cheese also called "feta" began to develop outside Greece, and more particularly, after the 1960s, with the emergence of a major "feta" industry in Denmark. , in France and Germany. At the end of the 20th century, feta-like cheeses were produced all over the world, from Iran to Australia to East Africa.

The word "feta" is protected for the first time by an agreement signed on June 20, 1972 between the Republic of Austria and the Kingdom of Greece; convention which aims to protect the indications of source, origin and names of agricultural, artisanal and industrial products. In this agreement, it is not specified from what type of milk feta can be produced. In 1981, when Greece joined the European Community, the name feta was not protected by law. Between 1987 and 1994, Greece adopted national laws to regulate the production and sale of feta. These laws exclude the use of cow's milk to produce feta, and define geographic areas for feta production.

From 1994 a legal battle began in Europe to determine whether the name feta could be protected or whether it had on the contrary become generic. A final decision in favor of the protection of the name feta was finally taken in 2002, which grants Greece the protection of the name feta and sets the rules for obtaining this designation.

Manufacturing

photograph of a slice of a cottage cheese and green leaves
Feta and basil.

In Greece, feta is traditionally produced from January to May in farms or small dairies from raw milk, without additives. In factories, feta is produced from pasteurized milk with the addition of fresh yogurt.

After being optionally pasteurized, the milk is heated to a temperature of 30−35 ° C, then the milk is salted and the cheese producer causes its coagulation (a step called "curdling") by adding acid cultures. The curd is then cut into pieces, in the form of cubes of 1 to 2 cm, then drained in a cloth and put in a fontage for 24 hours. The cheese, shaped into rectangular pieces weighing 1 to 2 kilograms, is then placed in wooden or plastic barrels of 25 to 50 kg in which the brine is added (usually at a content of 3 to 8%). This first maturation stage takes place at an ambient temperature of 16-18 ° C and lasts 10 to 15 days. A second maturation stage then takes place for at least two months, at a temperature of 2 to 4 ° C.

Feta is white and it dries up quickly when removed from its brine. Depending on the ripening, its consistency varies from soft to medium-hard (then developing a strong and pungent flavor). Its salt content is variable (between 1.8 and 2.75% salt) and affects its taste accordingly. Its fat content can vary from 30 to 60%, depending on the milk mixture. It is rich in calcium (490 mg of calcium per 100 g), protein (17 g per 100 g) and vitamins (per 100 g: 0.3 µg of vitamin D, 250 µg of vitamin A and 0.75 mg vitamin B2).

In Greece, feta is made from sheep's milk, or in combination with goat's milk (goat's milk must then represent less than 30% of the total). The "feta" produced by Germany and Denmark was most often made from cow's milk. In the latter case, cow's milk is filtered by a specific process, which has a lower cost than the traditional method of filtering through tissue.

PH, humidity and salt concentration values during the ripening of the Feta Measurement

After curdling After 15 days After 30 days After 90 days
pH 6.45 5.19 4.59 4.56
Humidity (%) ND 54.6 54.25 50.4
Salt (NaCl) (%) ND 3.44 3.8 4.01

Feta and other cheese curds in brine

From the 19th century, the word feta in Greece referred to cheese produced from sheep's milk or a mixture of sheep's milk and goat's milk, using traditional methods of milk coagulation3. Other countries, particularly in the Balkans and in the eastern Mediterranean basin, produce cheeses similar to feta: Telemea in Romania, Bjalo Salamureno Sirene in Bulgaria, Beyaz peynir in Turkey, Halloumi in Cyprus, the Domiati in Egypt, the Akkavi in Syria and Lebanon or even the Beli sir u kriskama in the former Yugoslavia.

Feta is the most famous of the cheeses in brine; this international recognition being due to the emigration of the Greeks, who brought with them their culinary customs to various countries.

Feta industry

Feta and olives.

According to a report by the US administration published in 2005, world demand for feta is 450,000 tonnes per year, of which 250,000 are produced in Greece.

In Europe

The consumption of feta in Europe is much higher in Greece than elsewhere: while the Greeks consumed 10.5 kg of this cheese per person per year in 2002, the inhabitants of the other countries of the European community consume on average 0, 1 kg per person per year. Greek consumers represented, in 2002, 85.64% of Community consumers.

The production of feta started in the 1930s in Denmark and France. German production started in 1972.

Before 2002, Germany, Denmark and France made 10% of Community feta. This figure is disputed by the French industrial processor Lactalis, which estimates Greece's share in Community production of feta at 57.5%. Also according to Lactalis, the share of Greece in the world manufacture of feta would be 28.75%. This battle of numbers stems from the fact that the French group incorporates, in the Community and non-Community production of feta, “feta” made from cow's milk.

Greek production figures Date Production (in tonnes)
1931 25,000
2002 115,000
2005 120 000

Danish production figures Date Production (in tonnes)
1967 133
1971 1,000
1975 9,968
1989 110 932
1998 27 640

German production figures Year Production (in tonnes)
1972 78
1977 5,000
1980 15,000
1985 24,000
From 1985 to 2002 between 19,757 and 39,201 tonnes

French production is:

In 1980: 875 tonnes
From 1988 to 1998: between 7,960 tonnes and 19,964 tonnes.

NB: the share of cow's milk feta production is marginal in France.

In the world

Feta is also produced outside the European Union, the name not being protected outside of the member states. Feta producing countries, outside the European Union, are, for example, Australia, Canada or the United States.

Bruce A. Babcock points out that for Americans, "feta" refers to a type of grainy, salty cheese that is commonly used in Greek dishes. The majority of American feta is produced in Wisconsin from cow's milk. The annual production of Feta in the United States is 45,000 tonnes. In Canada, the annual production of feta amounts to 4000 tonnes.

The issue of geographical indication for feta is being examined in the context of the proposed extension of Article 22 of the TRIPS ((en) Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property) agreements that the WTO seeks to put in place.

The name feta, a stake in a European legal battle

On January 11, 1994, a denomination of origin "feta" was created and protected in Greece. On January 21 of the same year, the Greek administration requested that the name "feta" become a Protected Designation of Origin in accordance with European regulation 2081/92, adopted two years earlier by the European Community. The commission responsible for examining the request first found that the name had not become generic, thanks to a survey which established that the word feta is indeed associated by European consumers with a Greek origin. The committee decided on June 12, 1996 (Regulation No. 1107/96) to grant protection to the appellation feta, as well as to nineteen other Greek cheeses. In reaction, Denmark, Germany and France, which produce large quantities of this type of cheese under the name feta, are taking the European Communities court to overturn the protected designation of origin established by Greece. The arguments of the three complainants are that feta does not meet the necessary conditions established by the European PDO regulation of 1992, and that the name feta has become generic. In 1999, the ECJ decided to cancel the feta PDO because the committee had not sufficiently examined the conditions required by European regulation 2081/92. From this court decision, the name feta therefore becomes free again in Europe, except between Austria and Greece, whose bilateral agreement of 1972 is still valid.

The European Commission orders the opening of a new scientific investigation which leads, on October 14, 2002, to the reintegration of feta in the table of PDOs as a Greek product (European regulation N ° 1829/2002). The scientific commission charged with re-examining the feta dossier gathered all the data on the production and consumption of feta in Europe, in order to determine whether the name feta was generic or not. The commission's research showed that the name feta "was not used as a common name synonymous with cottage cheese in brine. The care with which operators [in this market] refer to the country of origin and try to avoid confusion when using the designation is significant. In consumer perception, the name feta still evokes a Greek origin and has therefore not become a common and generic name in the community […]. "

Germany and Denmark (applicants) are seeking to overturn this decision. The epilogue of this legal saga takes place on October 25, 2005, when the decision of 2002 was confirmed. With this regulation, the only cheeses that are entitled to the designation feta are those “produced in mainland Greece as well as the department of Lesbos, […] the milk used to prepare feta must come from sheep and goats of local breeds traditionally reared and whose diet must be based on the flora present in the grazing areas of the eligible regions. "

Dairy manufacturers in member countries of the European communities using the term "feta" had until October 2007 to remove the word "feta" from their labeling.

However, since the European regulation is only European in scope, several WTO member countries still consider the word "feta" to be generic. However, EU member states intended to defend Europe’s indications of origin (PDOs) during the Doha Round against other WTO members.

Packaged spreadable cheese

Packed mascarpone

Mascarpone is an Italian cheese, originating from the regions of Piedmont-Lombardy.

Ingredient of choice in Italian cuisine, it is used in many cooking recipes and particularly in desserts, including the famous tiramisu.

Manufacturing

It is a fatty, fresh cheese made from cream.

Originally, mascarpone comes from buffalo milk, but there is also a cow's milk mascarpone on the market.

The manufacturing technique is simple: just heat the cream to 100 ° C and add lemon juice or white vinegar. Once curdled, the dough is drained for one or more days through muslin in the refrigerator. Then we put it in pots.

Characteristics

The cheese has the appearance of a soft and consistent cream, very light beige in color, with a very mild taste. It is to be consumed very quickly.

Recipes

Dessert based on mascarpone.

The very creamy texture of mascarpone allows it to be widely used in Italian cuisine, whether in savory or sweet recipes. Some recipes among others:

in addition to certain soups or soups
in addition to certain pasta recipes so as not to dry them out during gratins or to thicken certain sauces
in fruit preparation recipes
in sweet mousse recipes
tiramisu
chocolate mousse
the soft with fresh vegetables
cheesecake
the strawberry roll

Packaged Mozzarella

Mozzarella, or mozzarella, is a spun cheese of Italian origin made from cow or buffalo milk. Mozzarella di Bufala Campana, produced in Campania with buffalo milk, has been the subject of a protected designation of origin (PDO) since 1996. In Italy, cow's milk mozzarella is produced and marketed under the name of “Mozzarella”, or “mozzarella di latte vaccino”, or “fior di latte”. Elsewhere in the world, mozzarella is an industrial cheese that is one of the most widely produced and consumed cow's milk cheeses. This industrial cheese, marketed under the name of mozzarella, is confusing with traditional buffalo milk mozzarella.

Appellation

Mozzarella takes its name from a particular stage in its production cycle. After the spinning stage, the dough is “mozzata”, that is to say “cut” into marketable pieces.

The word "mozzarella", feminine in Italian as in French, is sometimes francized in mozzarella but the exact name is mozzarella di Bufala Campana protected by the quality label STG (Specialità tradizionale Garantita) since 1998. Nowadays, mozzarella is mostly made outside Italy with cow's milk and not buffalo milk.

The name mozzarella has never been registered.

Manufacturing

It is a fresh cheese of sweet and tangy flavor traditionally produced in Italy in the regions of Campania, Apulia, Basilicata, Calabria, Abruzzo, Molise, Marche and in the south of Lazio.

The average weight of a cheese is 400-800 g. It is made from buffalo milk mainly in the Campania region and surrounding areas. It takes about ten liters of milk to produce one kilogram of cheese.

Only buffalo mozzarella has the protected designation of origin DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta). It bears the name of Mozzarella di Bufala Campana.

The particularity of mozzarella is that it is a curd cheese. The milk is first renneted. The curd obtained is cut and then soaked in very hot water (80 to 90 ° C). It is then spun: spinning consists of lifting and pulling the dough several times, using a bowl and a stick, until a stringy and homogeneous mixture is obtained. After having been subjected to spinning, it is “mozzata”, that is to say “cut” to give it the right size. When cut by hand it leaves a characteristic imprint.

For centuries, buffalo farms have been found in Campania, imported by the Lombards, mostly in the province of Caserta (for example the Aversa mozzarella is famous), but also to Paestum and Battipaglia.

There is a very large difference in quality and flavor between farm production and artisanal and industrial manufacturing. Traditional mozzarella is only made with buffalo milk, while industrial cheese factories use both buffalo milk and cow's milk.

To speed up production, some manufacturers replace lactic acid bacteria with citric acid. Fresh milk is more and more often replaced by chilled or even frozen curd, produced a few months to a few years earlier. The spun dough is then obtained by simply adding hot water.

Consumption

It can be eaten plain, raw or cooked, and is used in many recipes for salads, pasta, pizzas, etc.

The taste of mozzarella varies according to its quality, ranging from a relatively neutral flavor to the strong taste of milk, including subtle nutty aromas.

Farmhouse and artisanal mozzarellas should be eaten very quickly after making them, ideally the same day.

Mozzarella is the most consumed cheese in Italy, present on the tables of six out of ten Italians.

Nutrition

Mozzarella would be an acidifying food (PRAL index of 14.74).

Nutritional value: from 229 to 323,333 kcal / 100g.

Geography In Italy

In Italy, mozzarella is eaten raw or cooked, most often as a side dish. Its stringy properties make it an essential ingredient when it is melted.

It is a staple of baked pizza and caprese salad (tomato mozzarella), usually served raw with basil, olive oil and possibly non-balsamic vinegar (as it takes away the taste of the tomatoes).

Naples area mozzarella case

At the start of 2008, 66 buffalo farms (out of a total of 1,900 buffalo farms in Italy) were placed in temporary sequestration, for a dioxin content in the milk exceeding the accepted standards. During the following weeks 83 other buffalo farms were also placed under surveillance.

In France, given the doubts expressed by the European Commission on the evening of Thursday March 27, 2008, on the measures taken by the Italian authorities to guarantee the quality of the products marketed, the Minister of Agriculture Michel Barnier, asked professionals to immediately consign the affected products pending additional information.

According to some authors, these dioxins are the direct consequence of the waste crisis in Campania (region of Naples). The soil is said to be seriously contaminated due to the illegal burial and the savage incineration of mountains of garbage controlled by mafia leagues. Already “in 2003, in Caserta, near Naples, six thousand cows had to be slaughtered because of the dioxin level in the milk intended to make mozzarella, ten times higher than European standards. "

According to the producers and the Italian government, the DOP-labeled mozzarella has not been contaminated by these milks.

In malta

Mozzarella is also a cheese made in the Maltese archipelago. It often has a drier presentation than Italian mozzarella.

Wrapped paneer

Paneer (pronounced [pəniːr]) or Indian cottage cheese is a fresh cheese common in the Indian subcontinent made from cow or buffalo milk. It is a non-aged, non-melting soft cheese made by curdling milk with a fruit- or vegetable-derived acid, such as lemon juice. Its acid-set form (cheese curd) before pressing is called chhena.

Etymology

The word paneer entered English from the Hindi and Urdu term panīr, which comes from Persian panir (پنیر), meaning "cheese" in general, and ultimately from Old Iranian. Armenian panir (պանիր), Azerbaijani pəndir, Turkish peynir and Turkmen peýnir, all derived from Persian panir, also refer to cheese of any type.

History

The origin of paneer itself is debated. Ancient Indian, Afghan-Iranian and Portuguese-Bengali origins have been proposed for paneer.

Vedic literature refers to a substance that is interpreted by some authors, such as Sanjeev Kapoor, as a form of paneer. According to Arthur Berriedale Keith, a kind of cheese is "perhaps referred to" in Rigveda 6.48.18. However, Otto Schrader believes that the Rigveda only mentions "a skin of sour milk, not cheese in the proper sense". K. T. Achaya mentions that acidulation of milk was a taboo in the ancient Indo-Aryan culture, pointing out that the legends about Krishna make several references to milk, butter, ghee and dahi (yogurt), but do not mention sour milk cheese. Ayurveda mentions dadhanwat, a milk product similar to paneer and ripened cheese today.

For the making of what is today called chhana, Manasollasa, the 12th century Sanskrit text recommends the addition of a sour substance (even sour curds from a previous operation) to boiled milk, after which the precipitate was separated, the cheese then mixed with rice flour and shaped into various balls, and then deep fried to make sweets. Based on texts such as Charaka Samhita, BN Mathur wrote that the earliest evidence of a heat-acid coagulated milk product in India can be traced to 75-300 CE, in the Kushan-Satavahana era. Sunil Kumar et al. interpret this product as the present-day paneer.

Another theory is that like the word itself, Paneer originated in Persianate lands and spread to the Indian Subcontinent under Muslim rule. Paneer, according to this theory was developed and molded to suit local tastes under these rulers. Namely the Delhi Sultanate and Mughal Empire is when paneer as we know it developed. Another theory states that paneer is Afghan in origin and spread to India from the lands that make up Afghanistan.

According to another theory, the Portuguese may have introduced the technique of "breaking" milk with acid to Bengal in the 17th century. Thus, according to this theory, Indian acid-set cheeses such as paneer and chhena were first prepared in Bengal, under Portuguese influence.

Preparation

Paneer, from cow milk
Nutritional value per 100 g
Energy	1,108.76 kJ (265.00 kcal)

Carbohydrates	1.2 g

Fat	20.8 g

Protein	18.3 g

Minerals	Quantity %DV^†
Calcium	21% 208 mg
Units μg = micrograms • mg = milligrams IU = International units
^†Percentages are roughly approximated using US recommendations for adults. Source: What is the nutritional value of paneer? - Doctor NDTV

Paneer is prepared by adding food acid, such as lemon juice, vinegar, citric acid or dahi (yogurt), to hot milk to separate the curds from the whey. The curds are drained in muslin or cheesecloth and the excess water is pressed out. The resulting paneer is dipped in chilled water for 2–3 hours to improve its texture and appearance. From this point, the preparation of paneer diverges based on its use and regional tradition.

In North Indian cuisines, the curds are wrapped in cloth, placed under a heavy weight such as a stone slab for two to three hours, and then cut into cubes for use in curries. Pressing for a shorter time (approximately 20 minutes) results in a softer, fluffier cheese.

In Bengali, Odia and other east Indian cuisines, the chhena are beaten or kneaded by hand into a dough-like consistency, heavily salted and hardened to produce paneer (called ponir), which is typically eaten in slices at teatime with biscuits or various types of bread, deep-fried in a light batter or used in cooking.

In the area surrounding the city of Surat in Gujarat, Surti Paneer is made by draining the curds and ripening them in whey for 12 to 36 hours.

Use in dishes

Mattar paneer, a vegetarian dish from India

Saag paneer or palak paneer, a spinach-based curry dish

Paneer butter masala

Paneer tikka masala from India

Paneer is the most common type of cheese used in traditional cuisines from the Indian subcontinent. It is sometimes wrapped in dough and deep-fried or served with either spinach (palak paneer) or peas (mattar paneer). Paneer is used in main dishes as well as desserts and snacks.

The well-known rasgulla features plain chhana beaten by hand and shaped into balls which are boiled in syrup. The sana / chhana / chhena used in such cases is manufactured by a slightly different procedure from paneer; it is drained but not pressed, so that some moisture is retained, which makes for a soft, malleable consistency. It may, however, be pressed slightly into small cubes and curried to form a dalna in Maithili, Oriya and Bengali cuisines.

Paneer dishes

Some paneer recipes include

Paneer pulao (paneer with rice)
Mattar paneer (paneer with peas)
Shahi paneer (paneer cooked in a rich Mughlai curry)
Paneer tikka (a vegetarian version of chicken tikka, paneer placed on skewers and roasted)
Paneer tikka masala
Chili paneer (an Indo-Chinese preparation with spicy chilies, onions and green peppers, usually served dry and garnished with spring onions)
Paneer pakora (paneer fritters)
Palak paneer
Ras malai
Rasgulla
Khoya paneer
Paneer momo
Kadai paneer

A pizza with paneer and vegetable topping from India

Anari, a fresh mild whey cheese produced in Cyprus, is very similar in taste and texture to fresh Indian paneer. Circassian cheese is produced using a similar method and is close in consistency to paneer, but is usually salted. Farmer cheese (pressed cottage cheese) and firm versions of quark are similar except that they are made from cultured milk and may be salted. Although many Indians translate "paneer" into "cottage cheese", cottage cheese may be made using rennet extracted from the stomach of ruminants and such varieties when pressed into farmer cheese are firmer than paneer. Queso blanco or queso fresco are often recommended as substitutes in the Americas and Spain as they are more commercially available in many American markets. Queso blanco can be a closer match, as it is acid-set while queso fresco frequently uses rennet at a lower temperature. Both are generally salted, unlike paneer. It is also similar to unsalted halloumi.

Wrapped Ricotta

Ricotta is the common name for a dairy preparation of Italian origin of fresh cheese available in almost all regions of Italy.

Ricotta is widely used and made in Italy but the appellation is also used commercially in other countries accompanied by cheeses made according to recipes sometimes far from that of origin because this appellation is part of the public domain and is not subject to of no protection, it can therefore be used throughout the world for different cheeses.

Definition

The Canadian Dairy Commission defines cheeses using the designation “ricotta” as made from whole or partially skimmed milk and not from whey6, primarily buffalo and sheep milk, but also goat or cow milk. The production is done in two phases, renneting and curdling.

For renneting, the milk is first warmed to its natural temperature of around 35-38 ° C and is acidified with an acidic product such as lemon juice or vinegar. These are the seroproteins contained in the liquid part of the milk which separate from the whey during precipitation or curdling. Unlike the “rennet curd” which is not cooked, the second phase consists of cooking the “ricotta curd” at around 80 to 85 ° C for 15 to 20 minutes to obtain the final preparation recovered by surface flushing. The proteins concerned are, in particular, albumin and globulin. The cooking is stopped for 5 min to consolidate the surface layer which is separated by decantation of the whey or whey. It is this fresh paste which is the basis for preparing all classic cheeses which also undergo maturing. Here, it is ricotta which is collected to be placed in wicker baskets or tapered faisselles to allow the final draining of the whey for a day, to be then put to dry in a cool room.

Methods of obtaining

Several production methods exist depending on the country, the target quality and the available milk or whey.

An example: the whey is heated between 15 and 20 minutes at around 80 to 90 ° C (ricotta in Italian means “annealed”) to trigger flocculation. The flakes (protein albumin and globulin) are collected by means of a skimmer and poured into wicker baskets (if not marketed) or plastic for draining. New techniques use the salt saturation reaction to improve yield. The portion coagulated by heating is placed in perforated containers to allow the flow of excess liquid.

Industrial production

Like all whey cheeses, industrial ricotta is a way to take advantage of the product resulting from the manufacture of rennet milk cheese: whey (or whey or whey). The raw material is therefore this necessarily fresh dairy product.

As the name “ricotta” is in the public domain, the production recipes differ according to the breeders and cheesemakers, the artisan cheesemakers or the dairy factories. Many of these preparations provide for some incorporation of milk and / or water during the cooking phase, generally at 40−55 ° C, but the whey always remains in the majority quantity to make ricotta.

Consumption

The best period for its consumption is from June to September (placing in the meadow of the animals) after a ten-day ripening. When it is industrial, with the seasonal adjustment of intensively farmed livestock providing uninterrupted milk, it can be produced year round.

It can be eaten as is, salty or sweet, dried or smoked to be used grated, raw or cooked, it is used in the preparation of many dishes of Italian or Maltese cuisine.

Ricotta is almost always made in molds with the typical shape of a truncated cone and sold fresh in this form.

Nutrition

Ricotta is low in fat (about 8-24% total weight, 40% dry weight) and can therefore be used in many lean diets. It provides between 130 and 240 kcal per 100 g.

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